I am building an extension to my shop at the moment. My existing shop has become too cluttered and I am running out of space. I need to shift some of the machines (sanders and such) out of the main shop so that I can move about and work more safely. The construction is of simple, bolt-together panels that we are knocking together on-site, so that if the building ever needs to be removed for any reason, a spanner will be all that is required to take it down.
I am in the middle of an unusual project at the moment. It is the construction of a self-cleaning flight area in my bird-room (my other hobby is breeding Exhibition Budgerigars). The idea is that most of the debris that the budgerigars create will fall automatically into a large bucket or trug so that little or no time has to go into the laborious business of cleaning the bird flights out. I have designed the flight to achieve this purpose. Here are some progress photos.
Coats and jackets accumulate. Especially on the backs of chairs in the kitchen. And hats and caps can strew the island worktop. This can be a matter of great annoyance to the lady of the house. Thus, it became necessary for me to construct a coat rack & hat shelf to accommodate these sundry garments.
Lately, in terms of wood craft, I have been thinking about the Japanese philosophy of Simplicity, Modesty & the Appreciation of Nature. But then I have always, for many years anyway , had an interest in Japanese Joinery, the apparent simplicity of their tools and the wonder of their craft. I even made a few Japanese hand planes or Kanna, some years ago. See two of them below:
The one on the right even has a genuine Japanese forged blade.
Setting and Adjusting Infill Hand Planes
that do not have Adjuster Mechanisms.
This note is intended to accompany the above video on the subject of hammer-adjustment of infill hand planes. The video was made in response to a request from a forum member on Homemadetools.net. Specifically, the questioner wanted to know how the plane should be handled and where it should be tapped with the hammer in order to make depth of cut adjustments. Because the video was made to specifically answer that question and because of technical difficulties regarding the length of the video, much had to be left out. I wish to try and correct these omissions now.
Understanding Radial Arm Saws:
Their Safe Usage & Tuning.
Today, the Sliding Compound Mitre-saw, in its various guises, seems to have overtaken the Radial Arm Saw in popularity. This may be due to the clearly, more portable nature of the SCMS; its affordability or fears over the safety of the RAS. Perhaps a combination of all three factors is at play. Certainly, many compound mitre saws are reasonably priced and can be easily stowed in the boot of the car or in the tool box of a truck. Set-up on the job is reduced to minutes.
A DeWALT 721 Radial Arm Saw
Just thought I would pause for a moment so we can observe this beautiful March sunset, looking West over the roof of the Waney Edge Workshop.
Here is The Waney Edge Family of Hand Planes, all made by me (by hand) in my workshop.
These were made from scratch; no kits were involved (I don’t even think kits can be got any more!)
They are all excellent user planes and are frequently put to work. Made from
brass and exotic hardwoods each one is designed for a specific task.
I love making something useful from offcuts and left-overs in the shop. Consequently, I never throw anything away. I keep odd brackets, offcuts of wood and metal, spare knobs, bolts, nuts etcetera etcetera.
Last weekend I came upon a lovely little piece of Padauk in my offcut box while looking for something else. “Aha!” I thought. “What to do with this!” I figured something to go with my newly acquired wood lathe would be useful. The result was this:
A bowl depth gauge. The piece of Padauk is 11″ long which is very close to the swing capacity of my lathe and the depth rod shown will dive 5.5″ into a bowl.